Wine: why it pays to visit domaines

The problem about being a food and drink writer (not that I expect you to sympathise) is that time away tends to be a bit of a busman's holiday. Certainly, it was too much of a temptation not to visit the odd winemaker on a recent road trip in France. On the way down, we took in Thierry Germain of Domaine des Roches Neuves , one of the best-known of the Loire's biodynamic winemakers who makes particularly delicious, crunchy cabernet franc-based reds in Saumur-Champigny. You might want to hang on (I would) for his thrilling 2011s, which should start to trickle through in a month or so (the Terres Chaudes is likely to arrive first), but in the meantime try Germain's seductively peachy, chenin-based L'Insolite 2011 (£17.95, Les Caves de Pyrène ; £18.45, L'Art du Vin ; £20.99, The Smiling Grape Company ; 13% abv). This is one to drink with a good chicken in a creamy sauce. In the Auvergne, we turned up for what must be one of the world's smallest fêtes du vin in the tiny hamlet of Chassignolles , which nevertheless attracted a number of the leading lights of the natural wine movement, including a Tuscan producer called Pacina, whose moreish, full-flavoured Il Secondo di Pacina Sangiovese (14% abv) makes a perfect accompaniment to tomato-based pasta sauces and pizza (as we discovered later on in the holiday) – buy it for £9.70 from Gergovie Wines in London SE1. In the Languedoc, we visited Domaine Bassac , where the sons of the family recently took over after the premature death of their father. I particularly like the smooth, ripe, organic Merlot Vin de Pays des Côtes de Thongue (13.5% abv), stocked by Vinceremos at £8.10 and L'Art du Vin at £8.95. Drink that with grilled lamb or roast veg with couscous. And on the way back home through Burgundy, we called in at the biodynamic estate of Guilhem and Jean-Hugues Goisot in Saint Bris , where 31-year-old Guilhem is making beautifully crafted, pristine, mineral whites that bear favourable comparison with neighbouring chablis. A good starting point is his pure, steely 2010 Bourgogne Aligoté (£10.95, Museum Wines ; £11.50, Les Caves de Pyrène ; £12.95, Slurp ; 12.5% abv), which would be fabulous with any raw shellfish. I love visiting winemakers. It's a great way to remind yourself that wine is about passionate people and amazing places. matchingfoodandwine.com Photographs: Katherine Rose for the Guardian