Wine: Italian whites

Based on the oceans of pinot grigio on the supermarket shelves these days, it's easy to dismiss Italian whites as bland and boring, but I find myself turning to them more and more. Bone dry, generally modest in alcohol, enticingly crisp and refreshing, and good with Italian and non-Italian summer food alike, they're a perfect alternative to rosé. The hottest bottle this summer seems to be falanghina, a southern Italian grape variety that looks set to be the new albariño (a similarly crisp, fish-friendly white from Spain). Bizarrely, it's M&S that has the bargain – Marks & Spencer Falanghina (£5.49; 12% abv) – and Asda the pricier version in its Church Mouse Falanghina 2010 (£7.23; 12.5% abv), a delicately fruity wine with pretty, star fruit flavours and delicious to sip on its own. You might also try Asda's slightly fuller, more rounded Extra Special Fiano 2010 , from Cantine Settesoli in Sicily (£6.98; 12.5% abv), which I'd fancy with swordfish or grilled sea bass. Marks & Sparks definitely scores, however, with the intense, minerally Vermentino , from Lazio (£6.99; 13% abv), which I see I somewhat pretentiously noted at the tasting as being "good for RC [River Cafe]-type vegetable dishes". (No, I don't spend half my life in the River Cafe; I just have – and love – the books.) I also love Sistina Pecorino 2010 (13% abv) at Majestic, which is £6.99 during that store's current 20% off Italian wines promotion. (Like most Majestic wines, though, it looks expensive at the full, undiscounted price of £8.99.) A sharp, citrussy white that would be great with a raw seafood platter, or with sushi or sashimi, come to that. While you're at Majestic, you might also like to pick up a couple of bottles of Marco Porello Roero Arneis (12.5% abv), currently £7.99 rather than the usual £9.99, which is a smooth, nutty, soave-ish white from Piedmont that would drink well with creamy, light vegetable and seafood risottos. Another perennial favourite is Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi , from the Marche, which often comes in a slightly naff, amphora-shaped bottle. Don't be put off: its earthy, slightly herbal character makes it a great match with early summer veg, especially wine-killing artichokes. Sainsbury's has added a Verdicchio to its Taste the Difference range (£5.99; 13% abv), which should be on the shelves now. The other advantage of these wines being obscure is that they're pretty good value (all are under £8) and that's definitely welcome in these cash-strapped times. A good choice in a restaurant, too. [email protected] Photographs: Full Stop Photography