Dan Lepard's marmalade recipes

Marmalade season is here again, and I'll be up at the World's Original Marmalade Awards in Cumbria , looking at the 1,000-odd jars that will wing their way from around the world to Dalemain Mansion for judging. The variation you see from marmalades all made basically from the same recipe is huge, and reflects how slight changes in the fruit used, cooking times and temperatures create vastly different results. My thick-cut Seville marmalade recipe is straightforward: slice a kilo of oranges, soak in water overnight, then boil in the same liquid until very soft; bin the pips and fibrous bits, chop the peel, add 600g sugar and 50ml lemon juice, cook to 104C and bottle. But the devil, as the Women's Institute judges know, is in the detail. I recently picked up two excellent tips that improved my marmalade making. Jane Hasell-McCosh , the founder of the awards, cooks her fruit whole – as cooks at Dalemain have been doing for hundreds of years – before chopping, so all the strain of cutting the peel into small pieces becomes almost effortless. The other came from Pam Corbin , who told me that keeping the acidity high and the sugar relatively low gives the punchiest flavour and the best set. Dalemain's three-fruit marmalade Inspired by the secret-recipe house marmalade that Jane makes, this recipe makes a preserve that's rough and full-bodied, but utterly delicious. Use regular oranges, not Sevilles, because the low sugar-to-fruit ratio means it still sets to a delicate jelly and the chunks of peel make it extra thick. 1 grapefruit, 2 lemons and 3 oranges, weighing 1kg in total 400g caster sugar Cut the grapefruit into quarters and the lemons and oranges in half, place everything in a saucepan, barely cover with water, and bring to a boil. Simmer for two to three hours, topping up the water to keep the fruit covered as it cooks. You want to get the peel extra soft, so that it can be squished easily between the thumb and forefinger. Drain the fruit, reserving all the liquid, then, when it is cool, use a spoon to scoop away any fibrous membrane, pips and stalk; chop the thick peel into small squares or chunks. Measure the cooking liquid – if you have more than 500ml, reduce it by hard boiling in a deep saucepan until you have that amount. Now add the peel and sugar, and bring to a boil. Skim off the first foam that appears on the surface, then keep it boiling until the temperature reaches 104C. Leave to cool for five minutes, pour into hot sterilised jars and seal with clean dry lids immediately. Marmalade carrot puddings These are very quick to make. You can also bake them in teacups in the microwave, covered with clingfilm, in a little over a minute. Excellent with vanilla ice-cream or custard. Makes about eight puddings. 1 jar marmalade 50g unsalted butter 50ml sunflower oil 175g muscovado sugar 3 medium eggs 300g-350g carrot, peeled and grated 2 tsp mixed spice 2 tsp ground ginger 175g plain flour 2 tsp baking powder Have ready eight buttered dariole moulds and place a generous spoonful of marmalade in each. Heat the oven to 180C (160C fan-assisted)/350F/gas mark 4. Melt the butter, then pour into a bowl and beat in the oil, sugar and eggs. Stir in the carrot, then mix in the spices, flour and baking powder. Divide the mixture between the tins, cover each with foil and bake for 25 minutes. (The uncooked pudding will hold at room temperature for two to three hours before baking.) To serve, remove the foil while the pudding is still hot, run a knife around the inside to loosen and upturn on to a plate, giving the mould a firm shake to dislodge it. danlepard.com/guardian